Anna

With a wanderlust and lusts of other sorts, I look to sth new, sth different, sth fulfilling, and find myself on a journey to nowhere...

 

I’ve been to Macau many times, but this is the first time that I have visited Mandarin’s House. What a delightful surprise!Covering nearly 4000 square metres, this complex is still the largest private residence in Macau. Designated by Macau Government as heritage, it features both oriental and western architectural influence, and is the epitome of traditional Guangdong dwelling.

It resonates with me deeply as many features of the House are just like the old house in Guangzhou where I once resided in, such as the big square brick flooring, the tile roofing and the exterior wood door. Mandarin’s House dated back to 1869, with subsequent expansions by Zheng Guanying, a legendary figure and a celebrity in late Qing Dynasty who has written the masterpiece Words of Warning in Times of Prosperity in this house. Zheng’s fourth son, Zheng Jingkang, is the first generation of photographers in Communist China. The Mao Zedong portrait hanging at the Tiananmen Square is his work.

What we see of Mandarin’s House today is a result of conservation and renovation by Macau Government. The House was largely destroyed around the middle of last century when Zheng’s descendants moved out, leaving it occupied by many tenants and hence in a state of negligence and destitution. As visitor, you are asked to make online reservation in advance. My advice is, this is not a popular spot so it is not necessary.

For visitor information, check out here.

 

Macau is not new to me. But in my latest visit to this gambling mecca, I had a bit of new experience.

I went to its highest revolving restaurant “cafe 360” in Macau Tower (338m high) for buffet dinner. The food was fine for MOP 328, not something that I will rave about. It is the view from the restaurant and the overall ambience that has impressed me. From the restaurant there is a really stunning view of the city lights and landscape.By the way, I waited for half an hour for a bus going to Macau Tower. Taking taxis may be the best way to get to the Tower.

 

The Hong Kong Heritage Museum is going to present the exhibition “Picasso – Masterpieces from the Musee National Picasso, Paris” from 19 May to 22 July. Each viewing session is only two hours during the weekend. For details, check out here.

Another heavyweight exhibition to be staged in Hong Kong is “A Lofty Retreat from the Red Dust: The Secret Garden of Emperor Qianlong”, from 22 June to 14 October, in Hong Kong Museum of Art. It will feature 77 sets of painting and calligraphy, furniture, mural paintings, architectural elements and religious art on loan from the Palace Museum, Beijing. The Garden was located in the northeastern corner of the Forbidden City, built by Emperor Qianlong (reigning from 1735 to 1796) for his enjoyment in retirement. For details, pls see here.

 

This hiking route is a result of serendipity. I went on a track and found that I was in the opposite direction of the planned route. Then I met a couple who are veteran hikers, and who told me that I should continue and go to Mui Tsz Lam (梅子林), one of the oldest paths in HK, and one that they enjoy so much that they come back again and again.

So this has become my route:

Ma On Shan Village (馬鞍山村), Mao Ping (茅坪), Mui Tze Lam(梅子林), Chevalier Garden (富安花園) / Tai Shui Hang (大水坑)

To arrive at Ma On Shan Village, the starting point, the easiest way is to take taxi from Ma On Shan MTR station (HK$40). Tell the driver that you want to get to the terminus of the village bus (NR84). There is a staircase next to the terminus. Follow it and then turn right. After about 20 minute walk, you will come to an intersection with a pavilion. Go the direction of Tai Shui Tseng (大水井) and Gilwell Camp(基維爾營). Soon, at your left, lies a plateau. Walk to its edge and you can have this open view: Follow the original track. At the next intersection, turn right and choose “Mui Tsz Lam” (梅子林)。If you turn left, the path will lead to Pak Kong (北港) in Sai Kung. This is actually the middle point of the old path which is at least a century old, and one of the best preserved old paths in Hong Kong. HK Government has officially named it Mui Tse Lam – Pak Kong Old Path (梅子林北港古徑), stretching between Mui Tse Lam in Ma On Shan and Pak Kong in Sai Kung.

The veteran hiking couple is right. This path is so enjoyable – green, peaceful and reminiscent of the past. Made of irregular stones, the path is preserved like a hundred years ago. Former villagers had created this path for going between Ma On Shan and Sai Kung using the stones they could find along the way, and amazingly this we can still use today. Going forward, you will pass by the abandoned Mao Ping village and come to Mui Tze Lam village.

Legacy of Mao Ping village

looking back at Mui Tze Lam village

The concrete Mui Tze Lam Road(梅子林路), next to the village, with hardly any traffic, will lead you to Chevalier Garden, a housing estate. There is a bus terminus there. Or you can continue walking to Tai Shui Hang MTR station.

The whole route is about 3 to 3.5 hours.

It must be mentioned that Mui Tsz Lam is famous for its Feng Shui Woods. Supporting 72 fung shui wood species, by far the greatest number in Hong Kong, it stands out from other Fung Shui Woods. Ancestors in Hong Kong had planted Fung Shui woods around their villages, for bringing in good Fung Shui as well as for protection of their homes from flooding, mudslides, and typhoons. These Fung Shui Woods usually have high ecological value. The Mui Tsz Lam part of the Mui Tse Lam – Pak Kong Old Path, belongs to Mui Tsz Lam Fung Shui Woods. It is why the walk there is so green and lush.

 

Tung Ping Chau is an offshore island located in the northeast corner of Hong Kong, being its most easterly point, and closer to the border with Mainland China than with the main landmass of Hong Kong. Known for strange and spectacular rock formations, it is home to some spectacular cliffs and wave-cut platforms, hardly found in the rest of Hong Kong. Unlike most other rock types in Hong Kong, Tung Ping Chau is made up of sedimentary rock and has the youngest sedimentary rock in Hong Kong.

Ping Chau has been designated one of the eight Geo-Areas of the Hong Kong National Geopark, and a Marine Park in Hong Kong, occupying a sea area of about 270 hectares enclosing the island. It is said that Tung Ping Chau is only the divable site in Hong Kong, with its rich species of coral and algae.

Historically, Tung Ping Chau was a fishing island. At its peak, there were 1500 inhabitants who had  their own local dialect call Ping Chau Language. Due to its remote location, the island is no longer inhabited.

The visit to Tung Ping Chau has got to be a day trip. There is only a ferry going to and returning from Tung Ping Chau on Saturday and Sunday : 9am departing Ma Liu Shui pier near the Chinese University of Hong Kong, and 5:15pm returning from Tung Ping Chau to the pier.

The ferry time is about 1.5 hours. Return ticket fare: HK$90. So you will have about 7 hours on the island, plenty of time to walk around. There are two restaurants on the island, to the right of the Tung Ping Chau pier. You can have lunch there.

How to get there:

a queue forms well before 9am for boarding the ferry to Tung Ping Chau at Ma Liu Shui pier

Take the exit going to Science Park at University MTR Station of the East Rail line. Follow the sign of ferry pier for going to Ma Liu Shui pier. Midway, you will need to go under and pass two tunnels before reaching the other side to arrive at the pier. Just follow the crowd. Many people go to the pier for ferry to Tung Ping Chau or other outlying islands during the weekend.

The ferry starts at 9am at Ma Liu Shui pier. The return journey is a bit tricky. The official time is 5:15pm. But when I was there last time, I was able to board the ferry at 4:45pm which started at about 4:50pm. The ferry company, it is believed, sent another smaller ferry to fetch the other people at 5:15pm.

© 2012 Journey to Hong Kong