Anna

With a wanderlust and lusts of other sorts, I look to sth new, sth different, sth fulfilling, and find myself on a journey to nowhere...

 

Bellflowers are known as Chinese New Year flowers, because they bloom around Chinese New Year, which usually falls on the end of February, though this year’s Chinese New Year has come a bit early in January.

I went hiking in Sai Kung last weekend (18 February) and to my great delight and surprise, I saw bellflowers bloom on the hillside of the 408m-high Tai Cham Koi (大枕蓋). A starkly beautiful scene.My hiking route:

Sheung Yiu (上窰)- Tai Cham Koi – Luk Wu Country Trail (鹿湖郊遊徑) – Tsak Yue Wu (鲫鱼湖)

Hours taken: 4

How to get to starting point:

Take bus No. 94 or mini bus No. 7 from Sai Kung and get off at Sheung Yiu. Walk ahead along the Tai Mong Tsai Road (大網仔路) and pass by the the sign saying “MacLehose Trail Starting Point” until you see the roundabout which is an intersection between Man Yee Road (萬宜路) and Sai Wan Road西灣路). Turn to your left,  and you will see a flight of stairs up a concrete wall. Follow the stairs and all the way up, you will be on the way to Tai Cham Koi.

Initially, the climb is a bit hard as the path is filled with small broken stones and sands. Once this is overcome, the climb is generally easy. You can see High Island Reservoir and its surrounding scenic landscape on the way. The reservoir was opened in 1978 to alleviate the water shortage problem facing the city in those days.

At the peak, stands this landmark with a wonderful bird’s eye view of mountains and seas. From here, you have the first glimpse of colorful bellflowers lying in the field.

Go in the north direction (i.e. the path at your right hand side) after leaving the peak, and carry on. Bellflowers, hidden in the field, or waving at you at the side of the trail, will continue to attract your attention.Not long,  you will find Luk Wu Country Trail lying perpendicularly to the trail you walk on. A sign is put up at the junction indicating the direction of Tsak Yue Wu and Sai Wan Road. Choose Tsak Yue Wu and go downhill all the way before you come to Pak Tam Road (北潭路) where you can take bus or minibus back to Sai Kung.

 

There will be a rally tomorrow (Feb 19) organized by more than a dozen associations against the cross border scheme to allow more mainland private cars to drive into HK. The rally will start at 3pm at Sogo department store in Causeway Bay. Protesters will then march to the new government headquarters in Tamar.

If you are in HK on 19 February (Sunday), join me in the rally against the Scheme.

If you can read Chinese, this is my personal statement against the Scheme.

If you cannot, here are the succinct reasons why I am, with so many other Hong Kongers, so much against the scheme:

1. HK is such a small place with congested roads. The scheme will only lead to more pollution and congestion on the road. What is more, the car fuel standards in the mainland are lower than those in HK. More mainland cars on HK’s roads can only worsen the already very poor air quality here, not to mention the congestion on the road.

2. HK does not need more cars. It needs better use of its precious land and build facilities such as cycle paths for citizens here to have a better quality of life. While cities like Amsterdam are striving for providing more and better public transport and cycle paths for its citizens, Hong Kong government is stupid enough to go against the trend by putting more cars on the road, just for the politically correct move of “integrating Hong Kong with mainland”.

3. With the public transport (MTR) so developed and the city small enough, where is the need for the mainlanders to travel by car in the city?

4. The Scheme aims to encourage more mainland tourists to Hong Kong. But evidence has shown that the influx of mainland tourists is doing harm to the city. We do not need more mainland tourists!

5. Mainland drivers’ reckless way of driving and their left-hand driving vehicles compared with Hong Kong’s right-hand driving ones raise concern over road safety. Here’s what a reader wrote to me today on my Chinese blog:

Hi,
I share a piece for you to support your move. This morning (18 Feb 2012) at around 6:21 am. I was driving on the fast lane in Aberdeen Tunnel towards Causeway direction. At the tunnel exit, I saw a BMW X-series private car bearing a China license plate on slow lane was resversing backward. He missed the Causeway exit and was making a ridiculous reversing. This is not uncommon in China. I saw this first time in Hong Kong. Please ask Transport Department to share the CCTV recording to give you this evident to support your protest statement.

At present, there are already 2,000 mainland registered cars on Hong Kong’s roads. The scheme would allow more private cars to travel between Hong Kong and Guangdong Province.

In the first phase of the pilot scheme, Hong Kong drivers can apply for a seven-day permit to drive in Guangdong from March 30 this year. In the second phase, each day up to 50 cars from Guangdong Province can enter Hong Kong. The government maintains that the timetable for the implementation of the second phase is yet to set. But you know, once the first phase is implemented, do you think the second phase will not go ahead?

 

I ran half marathon in this year’s Standard Chartered Hong Kong Marathon, and 10km in last year’s. While the half-marathon was both enjoyable and exhausting for me, I had expected that the scenery along the route would be quite interesting and there were people lining up cheering on at some points. Well, at two points only after the starting point in Tsim Sha Tsui – the new ferry pier in Central, and Causeway Bay where the half marathon and full marathon ended.

the crowd near the finishing line in Victoria Park

It was because the run was mostly on the highway and sometimes in the tunnel. We as runners didn’t get close to pedestrians or the normal life of Hong Kong. I ended up seeing concrete most of the time while running, either of the bridges, highways or the high rise buildings in the distance.

I was hopeful that I could see some of the harbor in Central. I was disappointed. We were running in Central’s reclaimed area, with a construction site boarded up where the old star ferry pier once stood. It is construction and redevelopment that has become the signature face of this city.

And this year, I was lucky. I only needed to get up at 6pm for the half-marathon which started at 8:45am. Last year I got up at 4am for the 10km run which started at 6am. It was and is not a friendly race.

Running a marathon should be challenging and fun. In HK, challenging as it may be, there is not much fun.

Look, as a runner, you have to be careful that the pedestrians, eager to cross the road,  may not listen to the police and just run into you in the busy area of Causeway Bay.

 

There is bitter hostility between Hong Kongers and mainlanders these days. For Hong Kong government and its officials, this is like a slap in their face. They have been preaching the integration of Hong Kong and mainland and all the accompanying benefits to Hong Kong. They did not envisage nor could recognize that there are serious issues with “integration”. Expectedly, the government is not saying anything on the conflict between Hong Kongers and mainlanders, not to mention doing anything about it.

I do not want to delve into the reasons, the history and psychology that may lead to the conflict. While I think it is absolutely wrong to disrespect people and label each other as “dog” or “locust”, I am most concerned that Hong Kong is losing its character, press freedom, academic freedom, and all in all its value system.

In other words, I feel that Hong Kong is becoming another Tibet, where the immigration/strong presence of newcomers not only dominates its economy but also change its economic, cultural and social fabrics.

Let me lay bare these facts to you:

- In 2010, 37% of the babies born in Hong Kong are of mainland parents; in 2011 the year of dragon, the first baby born in Hong Kong is of mainland parents.

- In 2011, mainlanders accounted for 28% of the total number of transactions and 37% of the total transaction amounts in the primary property market.

- In 2011, Hong Kong received over 25M mainland tourists, representing over 60% of the total number of tourists of the year.

- In Hong Kong’s universities, mandarin was heard spoken everywhere, with many mainland students either being offered scholarships to study here or whose families are rich enough to afford them studying here. Mainland scholars who have obtained their doctorates overseas also heavily fill the faculty rank in the local higher education sector.

Here’s what I see and hear:

- In Hong Kong’s main shopping areas, there remain only cosmetics shops, jewelers, luxury watch shops, and pharmacies which sell baby formula, all of which cater to the needs and purchasing power of mainland tourists. The smaller / traditional shops are dying due to soaring rents.

- The simplified Chinese is everywhere, even in supermarkets. (To date, I cannot read / refuse reading books in simplified Chinese – they are eye sores, a distorted writing system that is in force in the mainland for political reasons only.)

- Hong Kong’s housing price is among the world’s highest, with cash from mainland buoying the local property market.

- Uncivilized behavior is easily seen. A friend of mine told me she actually saw a mainland parent allow her child to pee in the middle of a shopping mall. As a mother, she also told me she genuinely felt lucky that she became a mother some years ago, not now otherwise she would have to fight with mainland mums for maternity service and school places for her kid.

- A mainland scholar in a Hong Kong University just caught himself in a scandal for publicizing a survey of the Chief Executive hopefuls even before the survey was properly done and was completed. Allegedly he wanted to curry the favor of one of the hopefuls.

- A Hong Kong based Beijing official recently repeatedly lambasted a scholar in The University of Hong Kong for “serving the interests of a specific political group” after this scholar’s public polling recently shows that a low proportion of Hong Kongers identify themselves as Chinese, and this same scholar proposed an online election of the Chief Executive involving all the residents.

- 440 people were arrested by the Hong Kong police for protests and demonstrations in 2011, compared to 57 in the previous year.

- The press has been having a hard time conducting interviews and doing reports in the new government headquarters at Tamar because of strict rules and unfriendly press arrangements and security guards.

Can the Hong Kong government see what is happening to the city? Of course it can. It just refuses to see. An unelected Chief Executive and government, they do not need to listen to the people, anyway. They need only to look up to Beijing. Next month, the government will implement a new policy that would allow mainland drivers from Guangdong Province to drive and travel in Hong Kong. Are they sane? Is Hong Kong not polluted and congested enough? Are there not enough mainland tourists? With Hong Kong reachable by MTR, where is the need to travel in Hong Kong by car?

If you can find some hope for Hong Kong, let me know.

 

Chi Lin Nunnery is a Buddhist nunnery built in the Tang dynasty architecture style, consisting of gardens and temples. Construction of the complex started in mid-1990s and opened to the public for visit in year 2000.The nunnery has little heritage value in terms of history, but the complex is grand and elegant, worth a visit.The temples of the complex are open until 4:30pm. So make sure that you get there early enough.

Next door, Nan Lian Garden is a public park designed and managed by Chi Lin Nunnery. It is also in the ancient gardening style of Tang dynasty. The park is beautifully landscaped with trees, timber structures and rocks of special shapes and formation. Such a beautiful park, however, has aroused public anger because of the despotic management style – you are not allowed to eat, even snack, in the park, for example. I personally saw a foreigner being stopped from eating nuts from a small box by a security guard on the day I visited the park. Here, you are constantly under the watchful eyes of guards.

There is a sign at the entrance to the tea house, saying that if you are not a patron, you shouldn’t enter the area. It is not a welcoming park.

I have to recommend the vegetarian restaurant inside though. A very nice place to sit in with decent vegetarian dim sum and food.

the restaurant is behind the waterfall

A set meal per person is HK$120, with four courses. I liked it. This dish of vegetarian dumpling dim sum – thrumbs up.

To be consistent with its “despotic” management style, no photography is allowed in the restaurant and there is minimum charge of HK$80 for lunch and HK$40 for afternoon tea. Shouldn’t a Buddhist related place have more compassion?

Besides the restaurant and the tea house, there is a cafe. A small cup of coffee sells for HK$12 and tastes good. How to get there:

Exit C2 of Diamond Hill MTR station.

 

© 2012 Journey to Hong Kong